It is introduced: on February, 09th, 2005

While in service often it is necessary to repair a roof, to replace its separate plots, and at times and all cover. 
In this section you learn how it is necessary to carry out repairs of a roof from various materials.  

The contents:  

• Steel cover
• Tile cover
• Cover from asbestotsementnyih sheets
• Cover from rolled materials
• #666666>Wooden cover

The reason of the most frequent damages of a steel roof is mechanical effect on it at clearing of a roof of snow and ice. Careless movements can lead to scratches, holes, vyiskakivaniyu nails and fixing clips. 
The moisture gets into the formed apertures, the temperature range in a garret is infringed. All it comes to an end with steel sheet corrosion. And as a thickness of sheet small in a year it comes to complete unfitness. Infringe integrity of roofing cover disclosing of folds, cracks on lines of their bend, damage of trenches, funnels, drainpipes and trays can also.  
To eliminate the defects set forth above it is possible as follows: 
The opened standing folds should be pressed out once again, and lying to press and miss the mark with miniate putty which prepares from 2 parts of drying oil, 1 parts of grated minium, 2 parts of grated whitewash and 4 parts of a chalk. 
But it is necessary to cover previously damaged plot with drying oil or a liquid paint. The damaged plots of trenches it is necessary to remove and deliver patches, having connected sheets double lying folds. Junctions to miss the mark with miniate putty. Small holes (to 3 mm) are closed up by miniate putty, and a hole it is more (over 3 mm) - a tow, ochesom than felt or a sacking imposed on gustotertuyu an oil paint. 
To 140 mm it is possible to patch a hole from roofing material on petrobitumen mastic so that it blocked the damaged plot on 100-120 mm from each party.  
Previously the steel round an aperture should be cleared of a dirt and rusts, to dry and paint drying oil or mastic. 
On the big holes it is possible to deliver a patch from a roofing steel for all width of sheet or between two next standing folds on a line obreshetki so that the new joint fell to the rigid basis, instead of between obreshetkami. On zaplatnom sheet bend edges for lying and standing folds, then it put to the place of a hole, connect at first to lying folds of cover, then with standing and bend standing folds. 
If the whole sheet it is necessary to remove and replace it with the new completely is damaged. The new sheet incorporates to the next single or double lying folds. Junctions are coated with miniate putty. 
The damaged sheet of a wall trench leaves. Instead of it it is established new which incorporates to ordinary cover by a double lying fold.  
For roof repair it is possible to use both new steel sheets, and were in the use. Old sheets should be cut off previously on the size, well to clear, and from new sheets to remove greasing. Both new, and old sheets from both parties are covered with drying oil. If it is required to replace all cover, old cover should be removed gradually, in parts, that the moisture has not got to a garret through open plots. On all sheets bend crests and collect from them pictures (2 and more sheets connected on the short party). 
Sometimes pictures do in length of a slope then on a roof it is enough to connect only their long parties standing single or 
Double fold.  
To protect cover from pernicious action of the condensate accumulating on it from an attic, a picture inside cover with 1-2 paint coats and well dry. So good drying require bruski and the boards going on obreshetku. After all frequently the roof starts to collapse from the inside. 
To obreshetke sheets fasten klyammerami from the zinced roofing steel, and karniznyiy the roof edge is beaten by T-shaped crutches. 
Ready roof clear a rigid brush or shpatelem, zashkurivayut, will sweep off a soft brush or a broom and cover with a paint coat. After that the roof should be examined carefully.  
To do it it is better together: one examines a roof outside, and other - from within. In a bright sunny day from an attic the small are very well visible even treschinki and holes. At their detection the one who is on an attic, by means of a stick gives sig - a cash to the partner on a roof, last marks a chalk of a place of damages. After that small cracks on folds and on cover are closed up by miniate putty. On folds putty is carefully smeared, surpluses leave a knife, and on cover on it the patch from a dense fabric, a canvas, a sacking or a canvas which is then painted over is imposed. 
It is desirable to impregnate previously a patch with drying oil or to take some minutes in a mix from grated iron or leaden minium and natural drying oil. At imposing it is necessary to press and smooth the wrung out patch hardly with a hand or shpatelem, In a week after patches will dry out, a roof it is necessary obmesti and to paint.  
If you have found out a rust on a roof from an attic (to conduct on it a white rag enough) the damage place is necessary for clearing a rigid brush and to cover with 2-3 paint coats. After zadelyivaniya all cracks, holes, removal of other defects it is possible to start roof painting. Very attentively it is necessary to concern a choice of a paint and its preparation as at drying it should supply a brilliant smooth surface on which the dust and different dust would not be detained. 
To prepare a paint it is better on natural drying oil. Negatively affect quality of a grated paint use krupnomolotogo a pigment or a dry ink mixed with drying oil manually without application of special cars can.  
Roof painting is made by means of big mahovoy brushes. 
The paint is put by a thin uniform layer at first on sves roofs, and then same equal strips - from the fad aside svesa. 
Drainpipes should be removed, cleared, especially from within, 2-3 times to paint, every time well drying each layer. 
If after drying the paint was wrinkled and has cracked, means, it has been put by too thick layer. In cracks the moisture that will lead to steel damage will be detained. If on a surface of the dried up paint bubbles the roof has been insufficiently dried after the first colouring were formed or is badly cleared of a dirt and a soot.  
For clearing of steel cover or its preparation under colouring the rust converters which action is based on interaction of components with a rust, leading to formation of a protective phosphatic layer are used. They are put by a brush or a spray on a surface previously cleared of a rust. On sale there are some kinds of such preparations: «Rusas», «Anti - barks», «the rust Converter», etc.  

Tile cover  

Poor-quality tile cover at long effect on it of a moisture, and also at temperature change can burst and be stratified. If as a result of it it is necessary to replace all cover completely to remove it it is necessary from a roof ridge to eaves. Thus the good tile can be kept for a reuse, having cleaned off with it the solution rests. In that case when partial repair of cover is required, work is executed from an attic.  
It is necessary to raise the tile laying from above from damaged, and those which is to the right of it. Then to take out an old tile, moving it downwards and to the left, and on its place to deliver new, making movements upside-down: upwards and to the right.  
At zadelyivanii cracks it is recommended to apply the solutions giving to connections softness and elasticity and supposing some movement of a tile, saving thus the integrity. 
From this point of view is inadmissible to use the cement mortals having the big rigidity. As a material for puttying of cracks it is possible to use a limy solution from 1 part to exhaust and 3 parts of the small sand, mixed for viscosity with small cut tow. At continuous podmazke all horizontal seams and cracks it is required 0,05 cubic m of a solution on 10 sq. m of cover.  

Cover from asbestotsementnyih sheets  

Before roof repair it is necessary to check up carefully sheets, to choose whole, to cut off at them corners and to mark with a paint the lowered waves. Then it is necessary to clear away territory round a structure, to check up wooden details of a roof on durability and to make running bridges. Running bridges are done of two boards by thickness of 25-30 mm, on all their length cross-section laths jam. From one edge of boards two hooks or a cross-section board with which help they fasten for the fad are beaten. 
Repair is carried out from a board put across planked footway.  
If the whole sheet has become unfit for use, it is necessary to replace it new. 
For this purpose at first it is necessary to raise nails or screws of the next sheets on 15-20 mm and if fastening is made on the first wave and absolutely to take out.  
To extract or raise nails is better gvozdoderom, having enclosed under it a thin board. 
To establish new sheet it is necessary together: one raises the next sheets, and other puts new sheet on a blocked edge of the next sheet and moves it to the fad. The new sheet the same as the old fastens. Small apertures are closed up by ordinary cretaceous putty or bitumen mastic. On larger - patches from a dense fabric or a canvas are put. The patch should block the damaged plot on 80-100 mm from each party, and the subsequent painting — on 140-150 mm. Holes, it is possible to cover with the solution of cement taken in the ratio 1: 1. The put layer of cement is smoothed down, dries, grounded and coated.  
To prolong service life of an old roof, it should be cleared of a dirt and lichens and 2 times to cover with an oil paint, well drying each layer.  

Cover from rolled materials  

Repair of cover from a rolled material is recommended to be made at dry warm weather that in a heater and a coupler the moisture which can lead subsequently to a swelling did not accumulate. 
At roof repair integrity of its basis at first is checked. In case of detection of damages they should be eliminated and only after that to starting for cover repair. 
The rolled material applied to repair, should be carefully cleared from posyipki from talc and mica, and the damaged plot - of a dirt. Small apertures (to 50 mm) it is possible densely zakonopatit the tow moistened in mastic or rags to smooth down hot gladilkoy and to grease with a layer of mastic in the thickness of 2-3 mm, blocking an aperture on 100-120 mm. 
In places of large holes roofing felt or roofing material should be cut cross-wise, to bend the edges, the opened flooring to clear of a dirt, to dry and miss the mark with mastic. 
The patch of the necessary size is cut out from roofing material and put on a flooring, from above it is covered with mastic on which the unbent edges of roofing material are pasted. The formed seams are stuck with two layers of the roofing material acting on 150 mm from each party from the damaged plot.  
On the dispersed joints of rolled cover strips from this a material are pasted. On a roof it is possible to cover old roofing material with hot mastic or bitumen, previously having cleared cover from a dirt and properly having dried. 
To paint ruberoidnuyu a roof 1 time in 2 years is recommended.  

Wooden cover  

For repair of a wooden roof use the milled boards from coniferous breeds of a tree in the thickness of 20-25 mm with the chosen grooves for a water drain. It is required to replace the board which has decayed as a result of leaky prileganiya of boards to each other more often. In that case, if cover is executed vrazbezhku along a slope, filtering atmospheric water harms at once to three boards: top and two bottom. The new board is established strictly to the place of old with observance of a step of stacking. It is not recommended to repair the decayed board with use of inserts from new wood (vrezok, patches etc.) as their service life is very short. Decayed podstropilnyiy it is necessary to replace a bar completely on new with exact observance of the sizes and sites of cuttings for the ends stropilnyih feet.  
If the roof has sagged because of the begun to rot rafters it should be levelled at first by means of a jack or racks with wedges. Then under rafters it is necessary to establish podkosyi, having connected them skobami with stropilnoy a foot. The decayed rafters can to be changed, and to strengthen wooden overlays, having attached their bolts. In order to avoid troubles it is necessary to check a condition of garret overlappings regularly. For this purpose they should be taped an axe butt: if a sound of the deaf person the beam requires repair or replacement. As a rule, at beams the ends fixed into walls first of all rot.  
At detection of the damaged beam it is necessary for strengthening from both parties boards or a bar, previously having processed their antiseptic tank. Overlays are done the same section, as the beam, but is longer than the decayed part in 2 times. They fasten by means of bolts.  
For manufacturing of a new beam wood of coniferous breeds, and for manufacturing cranial bruskov - an aspen and an alder is used integral and kleenaya. Cranial bruski cut from saw-timbers precisely in the sizes old bruskov (for this purpose to use in advance prepared templates more conveniently) and nail up to a beam in the size 4h100 mm. Thus to possess them it is necessary strictly on the middle cranial bruska and to watch that nails, passing through brusok, got to beam wood. Sometimes the promade look slender roof happens the reason of damage and even destruction of boards and overlapping panels. 
If as a result of it it is necessary to change completely overlapping at first it is necessary to remove an insulating layer, to disassemble boards or panels, to take out from nests the destroyed beams, all it to clear of a dirt and a dust and to check up breakdown of axes of beams and horizontal position of support.  
Before replacement the ends of new beams are necessary for processing an antiseptic tank or to cover with pitch or bitumen and to wrap up two layers of roofing felt or roofing material. If wooden beams are executed from crude wood at their installation of a nest are not closed up, and remain opened. In frame and panel houses of a beam are established on top obvyazku walls, in wooden rublenyih houses - on outside walls and are cut between the top wreaths skovorodnem. In heated brick houses the ends of beams are established on outside walls on depth of 190-200 mm and on distance of 30 mm from a wall and closed up tightly by cement. To increase an air layer between the end of a beam and a wall promoting the best evaporation of a moisture from end faces, the ends of beams cut off on "moustache". 
At first place extreme beams, check correctness of their installation, and then one after another, in parallel one another, - all the others. After by means of level horizontal position of their installation will be checked up, beams fix nails, stack on them overlapping boards, and atop stelyut a roofing material or roofing felt layer and put a heater layer. At repair of panel overlappings at first collect frames to which then by means of glue and nails plates fasten. The end of the ready panel (length not less than 60 mm) is processed by antiseptic paste, and on a wall, in a place of its installation, two layers of roofing material or roofing felt on bitumen mastic are put. Panels establish on beams strictly in parallel one another and fasten among themselves nails which hammer under the loose leaves closing seams. The layer of a heater is put on a pas - neli, old or new. 
In wooden houses as a heater it is possible to use small coal slag or boiler slags, having filled up it overlapping by a layer of 100-150 mm, on overlapping perimetre in addition with a small bias is filled a strip from slag in width of 1 m and thickness of 300-400 mm. For this purpose slag within several months maintain on air, the sulfuric smell will not disappear yet, and dry, and boiler slag thus is necessary for watering from a watering can.  
Wooden elements of a roof can be amazed by larvae of a bug-grinder. About availability of the wrecker speak numerous apertures with a whitish dust along the edges. To get rid of it happens very difficultly and sometimes on it some years leave. The effective remedy of struggle against a bug-grinder are antiseptics which it is possible to prepare and in house conditions. The first method: 1 part of kerosene and 1 part of turpentine (crude) undertake, mix well up and shaken up. 
The second method: 1 part geksahlorana is dissolved in 99 parts of kerosene, turpentine, solar oil or vaseline oil. 
The mix mixes well up, filled in in ware with a dense cover and nastaiva - etsya within a week. 
The third method: to fill 1 kg kuporosa in glass or wooden ware and to fill in it of 9 l of water. The solution is good for mixing. 
As antiseptic tanks it is possible to use a nitropaint or acetone also. The summer apertures done zhuchkami, are cleared of a wood flour by means of a steel wire with an eyelet or a hook on the end and them under pressure sprintsovkoy joins antiseptics.  
The wooden elements amazed with a fungus, it is possible to process a solution of table salt and boric acid. For this purpose it is necessary to take 950 g table salt and 50 g boric acid, a mix carefully to mix, fill in 5 l of boiled water and by means of a sponge or a brush to put on a wooden surface. Processing to repeat 4—5 times before complete disappearance of a fungus.