"European-quality repair" by the hands
So, at you holiday. The savings accumulated for labour year are divided into a trip of children to the sea (to the grandmother on a summer residence) and dwelling repair. And, you have planned repair most that is capital, with the claim for "euro". And, apparently, it will fly to you «in kopeechku». And after all so it would be desirable and is better and cheaper… But how? To undertake, let and not knowing, not being able much? Or to employ masters is cheaper?
Experts say, that "European-quality repir" is simply qualitative, professionally made repair. Let’s check up, whether you can achieve such quality if have decided to save on-maximum and to do all the hands…
RE-PLANNING
Apartment repair, especially European-quality repair, re-planning which allows to improve and update apartment for the account of insignificant rise in price of repair often anticipates. If you were decided on it to begin it is necessary from the dirtiest works: a pulling down of walls, cutting out or cutting out of apertures, air line reduction on kitchen, demolition of the mezzanines, unnecessary cases.
At first we will release space of partitions from plaster and from a brick — in a brick quarter (on an edge), and also from atseita or dry plaster. Any fears removal of such walls to cause should not. They do not bear any load, and their pulling down will not affect a building design.
You do not have not enough apertures and arches? The cheapest variant: to cut down an aperture the puncher. At this method it is a lot of noise, a dust and especially vibrations. At neighbours plaster below can fall off. Therefore especially it is not recommended to use this method if re-planning is done in for a long time populated rendered habitable house (especially panel). If you live in a new building or in the brick house it is possible to take advantage of this method.
Apertures can be done a method diamond are sharp shlitsfrezerom. Then noise will be less and vibrations from a diamond disk — any. Besides shlitsfrezer, unlike the Bulgarian, "sucks away" all dust. Even edges of apertures are received much more exactly.
That re-planning of your apartment has not led to sad consequences for all house, apertures in bearing walls (both in concrete, and in brick) should be necessarily strengthened corners or a channel.
Bathroom re-planning, as a rule, is done before re-planning of other part of apartment. For "European-quality repair" bathroom re-planning not for the purpose of combination with a bathroom, and for increase in its area is characteristic. Such re-planning usually gives an area increase in one square metre and more. Besides, there are two more positive moments.
First, again constructed walls will be strictly vertical and little bit more thickly that were before re-planning. Hence, doors also will be strictly vertical, and the thickness of a door box will be equal to a thickness of a wall.
Secondly, after removal of the bottom plate at a sanitary cabin in a bathroom and a toilet it will be possible to deliver standard two-metre doors, and they will be at the same level, as all the others.
Attention! If bathroom re-planning included removal of own bottom plate of a bathroom, the waterproofing of a floor and walls (from a floor on height of ~10 centimetres) in bathing and toilet rooms should be necessarily made. For the waterproofing system special mastic is used.
If in your apartment santehkabina it is made of plaster decide, re-planning santehkabinyi is necessary or not to you, namely, whether there is a re-planning of expenses for it. If santehkabina it is made from atseita (asbestotsementnaya a plate in the thickness in 1 centimetre, still it name flat slate; because of availability in its structure of asbestos it concerns far not most ecologically pure materials) re-planning is very desirable. Re-planning also is desirable because of following moments:
- Walls at atseitovoy santehkabinyi are even more thin, than at the plaster;
- Walls at such santehkabinyi have no sufficient rigidity;
- The tile on such walls is kept not so well, and because of probable fluctuations in a kind of their insufficient rigidity can fall off in general in due course.
Having taken into consideration all above stated, you should decide, re-planning of a bathroom is necessary to you or not. But consider, bathroom re-planning should mean a pulling down santehkabinyi entirely. It is not recommended to take down a part santehkabinyi, except for a wall dividing a bathroom and a toilet. All santehkabina is a unit. Re-planning at which the part santehkabinyi communicates, weakens the design rest that can lead to deformation of the remained elements santehkabinyi.
Any re-planning of apartment means erection of partitions. Partitions are the easy walls dividing internal space of apartment on separate premises. Partitions should be strong, have sufficient soundproofing properties and are reliably fixed between walls, a floor and a ceiling. Apartment re-planning also can be done with use of partitions of a brick, peno - and shlakoblokov, and also frame with a covering from DSP, plywood, a hardboard or dry plaster.
Brick partitions in apartment are usually done in a half-or a brick quarter. Brick partitions are irreplaceable in a bathroom (to put a tile on a frame partition it is undesirable). They are strong, rigid, well absorb a sound. Negative property is their weight. Similar partitions because of their weight require the reliable basis. If re-planning is conducted in the old house with wooden overlappings, it is better to refuse their use. Deviations from a vertical at a ready laying should not exceed 1 see, and at plastered — no more than 5 mm.
Erection of a decorative arch. The arch in apartment executes basically purely decorative functions. The arch visually divides internal space of a premise into various volumes. Sometimes the arch hides some not so aesthetic design features of a building (a beam, an air line and so forth).
Planning repair apartments (European-quality repair), you should know, that the arch considerably influences a premise interior. For example, the arch can visually increase ceiling height, expand an aperture.
What should be an arch at "European-quality repair":
- In the rounded off places of an arch there are no direct plots;
- Places of transition from direct plots of an arch to rounded off smooth also are at identical height;
- The corner between an internal surface of an arch and a wall plane should be to straight lines;
- The internal sheet of a hardboard or plywood not only is beaten by nails, but also glued PVA;
- Nails and screws do not act;
- The arch is looked as a unit with walls;
WE LEVEL THE FLOOR
If you have found out, that the floor in your apartment has roughnesses, and also a solid inclination it can be levelled, having made rastvornuyu a coupler. To do a coupler is better before installation of doors and painting works. To evaluate amount of works, it is necessary to measure previously, the deviation of a floor from a horizontal is how much great. Liquid level is for this purpose used.
Quite often inclination in apartments happens so big, that floor alignment on all apartment can lead to reduction of height of a ceiling, sometimes till 10-20 see At such significant differences some cubic metre keramzita (to data, the dump-body truck contains from 1,5 to 2 cubic metre) is required not less than ton of a dry mix, and also. Keramzit it is necessary as napolnitel for reduction of an expenditure of a solution. It is possible to mix it with a solution — it will be received «keramzitobeton», or to use keramzit as the basis, and from above to make rastvornuyu a coupler, and the thickness of a coupler should be not less than 3 Additional plus from these works — significant improvement of sound insulation see.
Check up in the above described method a floor in kitchen. If it has a significant inclination the kitchen furniture delivered in one line will have the same inclination, and it needs to be exhibited strictly on level that the top surfaces of tables were in one plane.
After the coupler will be made (it should dry about one month, and its residual humidity before floor stacking should not exceed 5 %), check up its horizontal position by means of the same level.
IF WALLS KRIVOVATYI
Quite often concrete plates and panels of walls have a wavy surface, and this sinuosity happens enough deep and consequently well appreciable. SHpaklevkoy it is possible to "introduce" only insignificant roughnesses (to 5 millimetres) if they exceed this limit, it is necessary to use a solution and to do small plaster works. Or, for example, if doors considerably support a plane of a wall because of its strong inclination, also it is necessary to "reduce" plaster similar ledges. For reduction of expenses (plaster works are expensive enough) unessentially to plaster all walls having roughnesses. It is possible to be limited to those walls, roughnesses on which are well appreciable, or their small pieces. Them concern:
- Walls on which the slanting light falls, possessed under a right angle to a window plane (if they are not forced by furniture they are better for levelling);
- Places where plinths will fasten, especially what should be in the public eye.
Apply on the bottom part of walls where plinths will fasten, equal brusok or level and if cracks between bruskom or level are great enough (more than 5 millimetres) them is better to level plaster, and to plaster solution is possible only a small strip in height of 10-15 sm, and subsequently it is enough to "reduce" other roughnesses shpaklevkoy on is not present. That this small layer of a solution was reliably kept and in the future at face lifting has not fallen off a wall, it is necessary to prepare well its surface, having cleared from layers old shpaklevki and progruntovav glue PVA dissolved with water.
Other not evident defects frequently happens to smooth down enough shpaklevkoy to make their imperceptible.
TO ITSELF THE SANITARY TECHNICIAN
What European-quality repair without complete replacement sanitary technicians: cranes, bowls, a bath, a toilet bowl, polotentsesushitelya? And for completeness of "europeanization" it would be necessary to establish «a warm floor» (heated floor). Therefore you should make new distributing water, and sometimes and sewer, pipes. Furthermore, not simple, but the latent distributing is when pipes stack in specially made deepenings in walls (shtrobyi) which are then immured by a solution. Therefore requests to quality of works should be very strict as after zamurovki and facing by a tile to correct marriage, not having spoilt thus a significant part of a bathroom, it is practically impossible.
Pipes for a waterpipe are used the different: steel zinced, copper and metalloplastikovyie.
The steel zinced pipes — the most inexpensive, but also the most short-lived, term of their service is limited by 15-20 years. The enemy of the steel zinced pipes — corrosion. If you have chosen the steel zinced pipes consider the following:
- Connections from these pipes are better for executing on a carving, instead of on welding;
- Pay attention to, that the connecting armature (corners, mufta and so forth) also was zinced;
- After installation and to zamurovki joints necessarily check up on tightness.
Copper pipes are subject to corrosion much less the steel zinced. They have high plasticity that allows to do without numerous connections. A warm floor do a copper tube.
Metalloplastikovyie pipes are produced two-and three-layer. An inside layer at these pipes from a thin aluminium tape, and outside layers (one or two) — from plastic (molekulyarno the sewed polyethylene). They have, as well as copper, high plasticity that allows to do without numerous connections. They are not subject absolutely not to corrosion.
After installation of pipes, before zamurovkoy, take an interest at the neighbours, whether the pressure of water was changed at them and whether it depends on that, include or you switch off water in the apartment. If such dependence exists, works at you are made incorrectly, and it is better to eliminate marriage in time.
Simultaneously with a lining of pipes we establish a bath. The bath is established on level as the bath form already provides a necessary bias aside plum. At bath installation it is necessary to consider floor level. It is better to exclude at once possibility to use a bathroom before the repair termination, as, if over it to establish the crane to use it and consequently, and a bathroom will very actively, and bath damages are rather probable. At purchase the bath should be checked up. Bath edges should be in one plane. (It is desirable to turn a bath and to put it on a plane).
At a bowl choice it is necessary to check up its geometrical form. Special attention pay on the party of a bowl paid to a wall, — it should be absolutely flat. Then between a bowl and a wall there will be no cracks.
At the present European-quality repair it is necessary to replace radiators on more effective and aesthetic. Radiators happen aluminium, steel and bimetallic. Before radiator purchase take an interest in own DEZ — what working pressure is supported in your system. And also — what maximum pressure they use at «opressovke». Proceeding from the received data, choose heating radiators.
YOU ON CALLING THE ELECTRICIAN…
Even prior to the beginning of repair it is necessary to think over arrangement of furniture and to plan sockets, switches, additional illumination in those places of apartment where it is necessary.
We will be stipulated — to attend to installation electricians the expert should. But if you have undertaken — accept as the instruction to a survival…
If apartment repair is done in the house to which 20 years are more and posting in it is made by an aluminium wire it is better than it to make all anew as aluminium grows old in due course and loses the plasticity a little. For this reason old aluminium wires break after several bends. Sometimes, to reach a break, it is necessary to hollow a wall. Besides, at hit on an aluminium wire of a moisture being energised (at isolation damage) this metal starts to collapse fast. Therefore posting is better for doing a copper wire. For a lining of wires in walls are done shtrobyi, in them plastic tubes in which wires are passed are laid. In emergency it will be possible to pull out all wire and to replace new, not damaging apartment furnish.
Use for posting of illumination a wire section 1,5 of square millimetre, and for sockets — section in 2,5. For kitchen it is better to make separate posting (that is to introduce it to the separate automatic machine) a wire in 2,5 or even 4 square millimetres.
Sockets are better for choosing with "interiors" from ceramics, instead of from plastic.
The switch it is necessary to possess at an input in a room that he was easy for finding out in darkness, having entered in a room. It is possible to establish it near to a platband and at height of your lowered hand (about 80-90 centimetres from a floor), its this natural position. Furthermore, if you have children it also will be convenient for using the switch.
About desks it is convenient to possess sockets hardly above table level. On kitchen the group of sockets should be established under the future regiments. Do not forget to draw a conclusion for additional illumination and an air cleaner.
If at you a long corridor in its different ends it is possible to deliver ceiling light switches. In many apartments about a bathroom and a toilet, there where there were mezzanines earlier, is dark enough — conduct there illumination.
Recently very often put sockets directly in a bathroom (basically for washing machines). However in premises with the raised humidity to establish sockets and switches it is impossible. Do not think, that from defeat by an electric current you will be protected by""grounding", after all in our houses instead of grounding do«zanulenie», and it not same. The socket for a washing machine is better for delivering outside.
Switches and sockets should be established not simply in deepening in a wall, and in special plastic boxes.
Wires from boxes are conducted only vertically and horizontally, but not on a diagonal. It is done always to imagine those places where there passes a wire. Wires are stretched in shtrobah by depth of 2-3 millimetres. SHtrobyi should be immured. At a lining of wires in corners between a wall and a floor it is necessary to consider plinth height that then at its fastening to a wall or a floor nails or screws not to damage posting. Do not conduct a wire on corners of those walls, which leave on street not to damage an apartment thermal protection. Outside walls are hollowed rather easily so that shtroba let will pass above.
After closing-up do not forget to draw the scheme of posting with instructions of places of connection of new wires to old, and also zones where there pass wires.
About difficult for the nonspecialist — about «zanulenii». Do in its two methods.
To the plug in the case of the socket instead of "earth" connect a crosspiece from a "zero" wire. It is necessary to know, that this method has one serious danger. It is necessary to watch closely, that to you subsequently on a board any not too competent electrician has not mixed "zero" with "phase". It will result to that all electrodevices which you wished to secure will burn down. Besides, often this «the working zero» happens is polluted because of malfunction of any electrodevice or the posting. And still — in some houses protecting automatic machines break off not only a line of a phase wire, but also a line of a zero wire. It in general deprives of any sense similar «zanulenie».
It is possible to conduct one more wire from the socket to a distributive guard in a corridor and connect it on the guard case. Such wire name «a pure zero». However, there were cases, that the guard case has been polluted (a sampler showed availability of potential). In this case it is necessary to address in DEZ that they have eliminated malfunction.
Attention! The electroposting made incorrectly in your apartment represents danger not only to electrodevices, but also to a life and health you and your relatives. The competent master should execute all electrotechnical works.
WE START WALL PAINTING
As we save, it is possible to refuse wall-paper temporarily, and walls simply to "roll up" vodoemulsionnoy a paint. After all all core at you is already made and to paste wall-paper it is possible at any time. As colouring of walls as a variant of their furnish becomes recently more and more popular.
Paints available on sale now the great variety unlike recent Soviet times and to be guided in this sea of the goods difficultly enough. Therefore before purchase of materials including paints, talk to masters — to their recommendations it is necessary to listen.
For ceilings and walls the paint will approach matte lateksnaya. However, for walls the glossy paint is more practical, but luster is not fashionable today. On kitchen and walls it is better to paint a ceiling with washing paint as there a ceiling and walls become soiled most intensively.
At a choice of paints is better to be guided by manufacturers most firms of repute. The present firm paint never will deceive your expectations, of course, at observance of all recommendations about its application. The label together with the firm-manufacturer name, a date of issue and a retention period should be printed on bank together with the instruction in Russian it is necessary for them to adhere.
At purchase be guided not by quantity of a paint in bank, and on what quantity of square metres of a surface can be painted its contents. Having made simple actions by means of the calculator, you are convinced once again, that at recalculation on one square metre of a surface of a paint of one degree of quality even different manufacturers will cost approximately equally.
From necessity to run on shops and to choose the necessary shade you will relieve computer selection of colour («kolerovka» paints in any shade necessary to you). Such service grant today almost in each large shop.
AND NEVERTHELESS — WALL-PAPER
If on the family council the strategic decision was accepted — «to Wall-paper to be!», be ready to a hard problem of a choice. But it is possible to find rather inexpensive, but outwardly rich and pathos wall-paper simulating the most elite kinds stenovyih of covers.
There is a set of variants of wall-paper: from paper to vinyl, having a paper basis, steklooboi, liquid wall-paper. There is even such paper wall-paper (not to confuse with steklooboyami) with which it is possible to paint usual vodoemulsionnoy with a paint. The moisture resistant paper wall-paper impregnated with water-repellent structure (though their moisture resistant qualities are weak enough in comparison with vinyl and "silk-screen printing", — last maintain even damp cleaning) are manufactured. However, at a label on walls of the vinyl wall-paper which has been especially made foam, special glue (with an inscription "vinyl") because of the big weight of this wall-paper is required.
Thin wall-paper requires the careful processing of walls just already made shpaklevki. If you have passed this stage and walls have many roughnesses to hide them dense, "volume" wall-paper will help. However places where the cement mortal was used at plaster or at zadelke cracks, it is necessary to putty or paint over, that the dirt containing in a solution has not appeared in due course through wall-paper.
By the way, beautifully, up to euro-level, correctly picked up wall-paper and on a ceiling can be looked. Furthermore, now on sale there were special kinds of "ceiling" wall-paper.
Requests to «oboynomu» to European-quality repair:
- Wall-paper should be pasted end-to-end without cracks and nahlesta;
- Drawing should be picked up, that is wall-paper should be looked as a unit;
- If drawing of wall-paper contains vertical and horizontal elements they should be strict on level;
- Wall-paper should not depart from walls;
- There should not be tense corners, that is the corner should not «prohoditsya» a uniform piece of wall-paper;
- It is necessary to observe temperature range at the moment of drying of wall-paper. Do not suppose any draughts.
DOORS — RELIABLE AND BEAUTIFUL
What should be a source door in prestigious apartment? — It is final, — steel.
You will not produce it, but can establish. We will consider nuances of this action…
The source steel door is not always put in a concrete aperture. There are cases when the wall separating your apartment from the general corridor or a staircase, is combined from a brick or, than that is worse, from peno - or shlakoblokov, and the thickness it thus does not exceed 15-20 centimetres. From this follows, that the new source steel door will be on durability above, than walls surrounding it, that in many respects deprives of sense its installation. In this case it is possible to strengthen walls, having fixed on them steel sheets in the thickness not less than 2 millimetres. To do it it is possible both outside, and inside but so that it was not too appreciable for strangers. Besides, one of locks in a steel door should open a key not only outside, but also from within. Also should not be appreciable for strangers and those probes, which krepyat a box of a steel door to walls. It concerns "portable" doors, that is to what considerably support a wall plane.
At all dignities the source steel door has also serious defects: bad warmly - and sound-proof qualities. Cases of breakage of locks and jamming of doors are besides, frequent. Therefore — do not save, locks should be reliable enough and, hence, not cheap.
Backlashes between a steel door and a box should be not less than 4-5 millimetres in order to avoid jamming of a door in case of a fire (the sizes of a door increase at heating) or building deformation, for example, at a deposit (especially it concerns new buildings).
If the wall separating apartment from a staircase, thick enough (not less) for improvement zvuko - and thermal protections I recommend, except steel to deliver in the same aperture the second door, it is better than 15-20 centimetres same, as well as all other doors in your apartment.
And it is possible to place both doors in this aperture so that both of them did not act in inside, outside. For this purpose it is necessary to order and establish a steel door with allowance for that doors did not stir one another. It, first of all, concerns the sizes of handles and their site.
For example, locks or latches to interroom doors are put usually on distance of one metre from a floor and it is good, when all handles are in apartment at one level. Hence, handles of locks of a steel door are better for making above or more low.
Now it is time to pass to interroom doors which can be divided conditionally on two big groups. Ready interroom doors, and also interroom doors in which it is necessary to cut only loops, concern the first locks completely and to insert glasses. Domestic, Finnish, Polish, English and Spanish interroom doors enter into it. The second group of doors — some kind of a half-finished product. The interroom doors requiring concern it (except vrezki loops and locks) also in additional processing (painting or lakirovka) for giving of a definitive kind by it. This group includes the Canadian, Indonesian and some domestic doors.
Choosing doors, you should consider not only the basic criteria — appearance and cost, but also quality, features of installation, and also service properties.
As a rule, the interroom doors are more expensive, the they it is better. But appearance is subject to this law only to a certain limit. In our country it is door cost in 300 dollars. Doors in cost in 200-500 dollars outwardly differ very slightly, and the price increase concerns basically only "interiors" of the door block. For example, in expensive Spanish doors (more than 500 dollars) it can be the continuous pine file covered with a thick layer of an interline interval.
Import interroom doors are most qualitative. Marriage happens and in them (about 10 %), but it speaks an inaccurate handling and storage more often. Therefore at purchase of import doors stipulate possibility of an exchange of marriage. Right after deliveries unpack and attentively examine interroom doors. To transport them is better in a factory packing.
As to domestic doors it is necessary to be convinced that the method of manufacturing and a material exclude possibility of their deformation while in service.
At a choice of doors do not forget to consider accessories cost (locks, loops, latches for double doors, screws), glasses, and also, if a door not varnished, varnish cost, shpaklevki under a tree. For example, if to rather inexpensive domestic door to add accessories cost, and also work and the materials, necessary to finish it to decent level under the price it will be made even with import which can seem to you first the expensive.
Features of installation of doors: whether it is necessary to cut loops and locks, and also — whether there correspond the sizes of a doorway to parametres of a new interroom door. For example, the Finnish and Spanish interroom doors are wider than ours on 2,5 centimetres, and above accordingly on 4 and 3 centimetres. The Canadian interroom doors can be wider on 1,5 centimetres (depending on where they are made). Therefore before purchase of import doors define the sizes of doorways in your apartment. Consider, that all of them can differ considerably.
Service properties. At a choice of doors consider as well their firmness to different sorts to damages. If the risk of such damages is great enough (for example, because of small children or pets) is better to choose those interroom doors which simply enough to restore. These are the Canadian interroom doors, and also interroom doors from a file or veneered, with thickness of veneer not less than 1-2 millimetres. For restoration it is required to you only a few skin, a varnish or a paint of the same shade by which the door is covered. Therefore at installation of the unpainted or not varnished door necessarily save a quantity of a paint or a varnish, used for its painting.
Purchasing ready interroom doors, also acquire a small amount of a varnish or a paint of the same structure or a shade by which your interroom doors are covered. In that place where you purchase interroom doors, such varnish or a paint, as a rule, are. The firm will not send interroom doors back to the manufacturer because of the slightest scratch!
How to select doors for "European-quality repair"?
- The door surface should have a minimum of knots. Knots should not be big and through as after a while they will simply drop out.
- Preparations for a door should be collected from a bar in width no more than 50-60 mm. It is done that interroom doors were not jarred on and did not burst. And the direction of fibres at stuck together bruskov should alternate.
- The door surface should be smooth and not fleecy. Hairiness — use sign at manufacturing of a door of a raw material.
- The door cloth should be flat and not have curvatures. To define it it is simple enough. Apply on a cloth an equal bar or simply pull a thread. It is possible to put a door on an equal floor.
- The door box should be the door equal, veneered or qualitatively painted under colour, with good cleanliness of processing (instead of it is slightly spread hardly dissolved morilkoy as it happens at some domestic doors).
- Doors should not be too heavy, as the big weight — the certificate of badly dried tree. Then, in process of drying, such doors can warp and even to burst.
- The veneered surface should be without swellings, an interline interval about end faces of a door cloth and, especially, at end faces should not depart from a file.
- Door end faces if they are not covered by an interline interval, should be painted under its colour.
- «SHtapiki» round glasses — they should be oak or at least painted in the same colour, as a door.
Characteristics of "door European-quality repair»:
- Loops and locks should be vrezanyi so that a backlash between them and a box did not exceed 1 millimetre;
- The box fastens only on screws (diameter not less than 5 millimetres);
- Apertures under screws or are closed by special plugs, or closed up shpaklevkoy under colour of a box;
- The door should not open or be closed itself, and should be motionless in any position. It should not be closed with effort;
- The door box should be established strictly vertically with a deviation no more than 5-6 millimetres;
- Distance between a door and a floor about 1-1,5 centimetres. If about a door the carpet lays, consider its thickness that the door did not touch it;
- If two doors are nearby they should be at one level (is possible the difference to 5-8 millimetres, then this difference is levelled by platbands).
WHAT PRESTIGE WITHOUT THE TILE?!
By itself — you will spread a tile a floor and walls in a bathroom, in a bathroom. On kitchen, along working section — too a tile. But it is all — a standard variant. We do "euro". Then it is necessary to dream up and present a ceramic tile on a kitchen floor, and, can be — in a hall.
Choosing a tile, even from among import — be attentive. Especially with watchfulness it is necessary to concern the goods which seems very cheap. Usually it is the low-grade goods or acquired by our sellers under knock-down prices «nekonditsiya», having already transferred signs of deviations from a necessary degree of quality.
Tile stacking. A tile put on a solution for which preparation use a dry plaster mix, and add in it a small amount of glue PVA. Before stacking on a wall do notches, and a tile well moisten, that it did not extend a moisture from a solution and was more strong kept. This method of stacking allows to put qualitatively a tile even on not so equal walls. And as stacking is conducted on a continuous layer of a solution, under a tile there are no emptiness into which water can get or be formed a condensate promoting otslaivaniyu of a tile from a wall. Used for tile stacking the dry mix should not be limy (light).
For tile stacking it is possible to use also special mastics or glues, and also a mix of pure cement with PVA. These structures also well and strong keep a tile. However, their use on the walls having roughnesses or an inclination, is problematic enough. We will admit, you did not begin to level a wall. Then it is quite possible, that on any wall there will be a fair deviation, in 4-5 centimetres. Use at such deviations of special glues and mixes for tile stacking leads only to their unfairly high cost. And as there are they a minimum in 3 times more expensively a usual ready plaster mix, — and to excessive expenditure.
Tile stacking is started right after by postings of sanitary pipes, installations of a bath and doors. A bath obkladyivayut a brick with which then revet with a tile. Sometimes on this wall do a door for access to bath plum. But it is more preferable to make the demountable hatch, using as fastening magnetic latches (powerful enough and not less than 4 pieces, sold in the complete set together with the mortgage punched details). Or to keep in a brick wall a small window and to close it tightly a tile. Thus, in emergency you, having broken one or two tiles (it is necessary to have on this case spare), covering this window, get access necessary for you.
In a wall closing a bath, it is possible to make deepening for feet that it was convenient to stand about it, especially it is actual for those who should erase in a bath or, for example, to bathe the child. Deepening also is revetted with a tile.
«Otlivyi». That water did not proceed in joints between a bathroom and a wall, it is necessary to decide also, whether will be done "having cast" from a tile, or you will manage a special plastic border or bordyurnoy a tape. It is necessary to notice, that at stacking of a tile with "outflow" it is necessary to fix very well a bath, it is desirable to lay out from a rack brick against which its edges will lean. It is important that between a tile and the bathroom did not form a crack which at inevitable hit in it waters will increase.
«Otlivyi» it is better to do of the whole tile, instead of from small strips. In this case the seam between a plane of a wall and "outflow" will directly not be under a water stream that leads to its washing out and to that the tile can in due course is simple fall off.
Requests to tiled "European-quality repair":
- The tile keeps within strictly vertically and all tiles should be in one plane. It is inadmissible navisanie or sticking of edge of one tile concerning other;
- Under a tile there should not be emptiness (they can be defined prostukivaniem);
- Distances between tiles (seams) should be everywhere identical and equal (1-2 millimetres or more — on your taste);
- Seams between tiles should coincide and form a straight line;
- Seams should be executed strictly on level;
- Drawing of tiles should be picked strictly up;
- Seams are necessary for rubbing clean special zatirochnyim cement, it is better Finnish as in difference, for example, from Turkish, it does not turn yellow.
Certainly, in today’s issue we have indicated far not all kinds of repair work. Your apartment yet has no desirable kind — the prestige is not swept up yet. In following number we will continue finishing of your dwelling to level "euro".
At last, we will specify some aspects of independent repair of a class "prestige". Namely, — sequence of works.
For example, in a bathroom and in a toilet installation of doors after installation of sanitary pipes will protect door boxes from possible damage; stacking of a tile after installation of doors will allow to avoid the superfluous expenditure connected with possible expansion of a doorway, cutting of boxes, and also to exclude probability of damage of the walls revetted with a new tile.
Electrotechnical works (installation of sockets and switches) also are necessary for executing before tile stacking. Walls in the sanitary block, as a rule, thin and to make an aperture under boxes for switches and sockets, not having damaged thus svezhepolozhennuyu a tile, difficult enough.
Deviations are possible also. So, the small volume of plaster works is usually done together with painting if this volume is significant (usually in brick houses) its basic part is done before installation of doors. Besides, depending on a choice of floor covering type this stage is done by you during other time: a floor of a tile — if be going to do it in the apartment large part it is better to do before installation of doors (especially if a floor in apartment rough and you plan it to level). Alignment of a floor and tile stacking are connected with a great volume rastvornyih works, and thus it is possible to damage new doors. Zatirku seams in this case do after the termination of painting works. The laid tile should be protected well from possible damages and a dirt. Is better to cover such floor hardboard sheets.
If the tiled floor is on kitchen and in a hall to do it it is necessary after installation of doors. The border between a tile and cover in other part of apartment, for example, a parquet, should be under a door.
If floor covers are parquet (a parquet, the panel board parquet, the laminated parquet, a parquet board) the flooring is better for doing after installation of doors and the termination of painting works. As installation of doors and painting works are connected with plaster works, — water, a solution, drying oil or shpaklyovka can damage a parquet.
If you plan to lay kovrolin, — it is done in the last turn after a label of wall-paper, before platbands and plinths.
Have stayed on linoleum, — supply ideally equal basis (DSP, a hardboard, plywood). Therefore its stacking is better for doing after painting works, but before a label of wall-paper.
Under M.Verikina’s book (www.dveri-ust.ru) «How to make European-quality repair» (2000)
Source: «the Building season» #24 (2003)
It is introduced: on July, 14th, 2003 |
"European-quality repair" by the hands
So, at you holiday. The savings accumulated for labour year are divided into a trip of children to the sea (to the grandmother on a summer residence) and dwelling repair. And, you have planned repair most that is capital, with the claim for "euro". And, apparently, it will fly to you «in kopeechku». And after all so it would be desirable and is better and cheaper… But how? To undertake, let and not knowing, not being able much? Or to employ masters is cheaper?
Experts say, that "European-quality repir" is simply qualitative, professionally made repair. Let’s check up, whether you can achieve such quality if have decided to save on-maximum and to do all the hands…
RE-PLANNING
Apartment repair, especially European-quality repair, re-planning which allows to improve and update apartment for the account of insignificant rise in price of repair often anticipates. If you were decided on it to begin it is necessary from the dirtiest works: a pulling down of walls, cutting out or cutting out of apertures, air line reduction on kitchen, demolition of the mezzanines, unnecessary cases.
At first we will release space of partitions from plaster and from a brick — in a brick quarter (on an edge), and also from atseita or dry plaster. Any fears removal of such walls to cause should not. They do not bear any load, and their pulling down will not affect a building design.
You do not have not enough apertures and arches? The cheapest variant: to cut down an aperture the puncher. At this method it is a lot of noise, a dust and especially vibrations. At neighbours plaster below can fall off. Therefore especially it is not recommended to use this method if re-planning is done in for a long time populated rendered habitable house (especially panel). If you live in a new building or in the brick house it is possible to take advantage of this method.
Apertures can be done a method diamond are sharp shlitsfrezerom. Then noise will be less and vibrations from a diamond disk — any. Besides shlitsfrezer, unlike the Bulgarian, "sucks away" all dust. Even edges of apertures are received much more exactly.
That re-planning of your apartment has not led to sad consequences for all house, apertures in bearing walls (both in concrete, and in brick) should be necessarily strengthened corners or a channel.
Bathroom re-planning, as a rule, is done before re-planning of other part of apartment. For "European-quality repair" bathroom re-planning not for the purpose of combination with a bathroom, and for increase in its area is characteristic. Such re-planning usually gives an area increase in one square metre and more. Besides, there are two more positive moments.
First, again constructed walls will be strictly vertical and little bit more thickly that were before re-planning. Hence, doors also will be strictly vertical, and the thickness of a door box will be equal to a thickness of a wall.
Secondly, after removal of the bottom plate at a sanitary cabin in a bathroom and a toilet it will be possible to deliver standard two-metre doors, and they will be at the same level, as all the others.
Attention! If bathroom re-planning included removal of own bottom plate of a bathroom, the waterproofing of a floor and walls (from a floor on height of ~10 centimetres) in bathing and toilet rooms should be necessarily made. For the waterproofing system special mastic is used.
If in your apartment santehkabina it is made of plaster decide, re-planning santehkabinyi is necessary or not to you, namely, whether there is a re-planning of expenses for it. If santehkabina it is made from atseita (asbestotsementnaya a plate in the thickness in 1 centimetre, still it name flat slate; because of availability in its structure of asbestos it concerns far not most ecologically pure materials) re-planning is very desirable. Re-planning also is desirable because of following moments:
- Walls at atseitovoy santehkabinyi are even more thin, than at the plaster;
- Walls at such santehkabinyi have no sufficient rigidity;
- The tile on such walls is kept not so well, and because of probable fluctuations in a kind of their insufficient rigidity can fall off in general in due course.
Having taken into consideration all above stated, you should decide, re-planning of a bathroom is necessary to you or not. But consider, bathroom re-planning should mean a pulling down santehkabinyi entirely. It is not recommended to take down a part santehkabinyi, except for a wall dividing a bathroom and a toilet. All santehkabina is a unit. Re-planning at which the part santehkabinyi communicates, weakens the design rest that can lead to deformation of the remained elements santehkabinyi.
Any re-planning of apartment means erection of partitions. Partitions are the easy walls dividing internal space of apartment on separate premises. Partitions should be strong, have sufficient soundproofing properties and are reliably fixed between walls, a floor and a ceiling. Apartment re-planning also can be done with use of partitions of a brick, peno - and shlakoblokov, and also frame with a covering from DSP, plywood, a hardboard or dry plaster.
Brick partitions in apartment are usually done in a half-or a brick quarter. Brick partitions are irreplaceable in a bathroom (to put a tile on a frame partition it is undesirable). They are strong, rigid, well absorb a sound. Negative property is their weight. Similar partitions because of their weight require the reliable basis. If re-planning is conducted in the old house with wooden overlappings, it is better to refuse their use. Deviations from a vertical at a ready laying should not exceed 1 see, and at plastered — no more than 5 mm.
Erection of a decorative arch. The arch in apartment executes basically purely decorative functions. The arch visually divides internal space of a premise into various volumes. Sometimes the arch hides some not so aesthetic design features of a building (a beam, an air line and so forth).
Planning repair apartments (European-quality repair), you should know, that the arch considerably influences a premise interior. For example, the arch can visually increase ceiling height, expand an aperture.
What should be an arch at "European-quality repair":
- In the rounded off places of an arch there are no direct plots;
- Places of transition from direct plots of an arch to rounded off smooth also are at identical height;
- The corner between an internal surface of an arch and a wall plane should be to straight lines;
- The internal sheet of a hardboard or plywood not only is beaten by nails, but also glued PVA;
- Nails and screws do not act;
- The arch is looked as a unit with walls;
WE LEVEL THE FLOOR
If you have found out, that the floor in your apartment has roughnesses, and also a solid inclination it can be levelled, having made rastvornuyu a coupler. To do a coupler is better before installation of doors and painting works. To evaluate amount of works, it is necessary to measure previously, the deviation of a floor from a horizontal is how much great. Liquid level is for this purpose used.
Quite often inclination in apartments happens so big, that floor alignment on all apartment can lead to reduction of height of a ceiling, sometimes till 10-20 see At such significant differences some cubic metre keramzita (to data, the dump-body truck contains from 1,5 to 2 cubic metre) is required not less than ton of a dry mix, and also. Keramzit it is necessary as napolnitel for reduction of an expenditure of a solution. It is possible to mix it with a solution — it will be received «keramzitobeton», or to use keramzit as the basis, and from above to make rastvornuyu a coupler, and the thickness of a coupler should be not less than 3 Additional plus from these works — significant improvement of sound insulation see.
Check up in the above described method a floor in kitchen. If it has a significant inclination the kitchen furniture delivered in one line will have the same inclination, and it needs to be exhibited strictly on level that the top surfaces of tables were in one plane.
After the coupler will be made (it should dry about one month, and its residual humidity before floor stacking should not exceed 5 %), check up its horizontal position by means of the same level.
IF WALLS KRIVOVATYI
Quite often concrete plates and panels of walls have a wavy surface, and this sinuosity happens enough deep and consequently well appreciable. SHpaklevkoy it is possible to "introduce" only insignificant roughnesses (to 5 millimetres) if they exceed this limit, it is necessary to use a solution and to do small plaster works. Or, for example, if doors considerably support a plane of a wall because of its strong inclination, also it is necessary to "reduce" plaster similar ledges. For reduction of expenses (plaster works are expensive enough) unessentially to plaster all walls having roughnesses. It is possible to be limited to those walls, roughnesses on which are well appreciable, or their small pieces. Them concern:
- Walls on which the slanting light falls, possessed under a right angle to a window plane (if they are not forced by furniture they are better for levelling);
- Places where plinths will fasten, especially what should be in the public eye.
Apply on the bottom part of walls where plinths will fasten, equal brusok or level and if cracks between bruskom or level are great enough (more than 5 millimetres) them is better to level plaster, and to plaster solution is possible only a small strip in height of 10-15 sm, and subsequently it is enough to "reduce" other roughnesses shpaklevkoy on is not present. That this small layer of a solution was reliably kept and in the future at face lifting has not fallen off a wall, it is necessary to prepare well its surface, having cleared from layers old shpaklevki and progruntovav glue PVA dissolved with water.
Other not evident defects frequently happens to smooth down enough shpaklevkoy to make their imperceptible.
TO ITSELF THE SANITARY TECHNICIAN
What European-quality repair without complete replacement sanitary technicians: cranes, bowls, a bath, a toilet bowl, polotentsesushitelya? And for completeness of "europeanization" it would be necessary to establish «a warm floor» (heated floor). Therefore you should make new distributing water, and sometimes and sewer, pipes. Furthermore, not simple, but the latent distributing is when pipes stack in specially made deepenings in walls (shtrobyi) which are then immured by a solution. Therefore requests to quality of works should be very strict as after zamurovki and facing by a tile to correct marriage, not having spoilt thus a significant part of a bathroom, it is practically impossible.
Pipes for a waterpipe are used the different: steel zinced, copper and metalloplastikovyie.
The steel zinced pipes — the most inexpensive, but also the most short-lived, term of their service is limited by 15-20 years. The enemy of the steel zinced pipes — corrosion. If you have chosen the steel zinced pipes consider the following:
- Connections from these pipes are better for executing on a carving, instead of on welding;
- Pay attention to, that the connecting armature (corners, mufta and so forth) also was zinced;
- After installation and to zamurovki joints necessarily check up on tightness.
Copper pipes are subject to corrosion much less the steel zinced. They have high plasticity that allows to do without numerous connections. A warm floor do a copper tube.
Metalloplastikovyie pipes are produced two-and three-layer. An inside layer at these pipes from a thin aluminium tape, and outside layers (one or two) — from plastic (molekulyarno the sewed polyethylene). They have, as well as copper, high plasticity that allows to do without numerous connections. They are not subject absolutely not to corrosion.
After installation of pipes, before zamurovkoy, take an interest at the neighbours, whether the pressure of water was changed at them and whether it depends on that, include or you switch off water in the apartment. If such dependence exists, works at you are made incorrectly, and it is better to eliminate marriage in time.
Simultaneously with a lining of pipes we establish a bath. The bath is established on level as the bath form already provides a necessary bias aside plum. At bath installation it is necessary to consider floor level. It is better to exclude at once possibility to use a bathroom before the repair termination, as, if over it to establish the crane to use it and consequently, and a bathroom will very actively, and bath damages are rather probable. At purchase the bath should be checked up. Bath edges should be in one plane. (It is desirable to turn a bath and to put it on a plane).
At a bowl choice it is necessary to check up its geometrical form. Special attention pay on the party of a bowl paid to a wall, — it should be absolutely flat. Then between a bowl and a wall there will be no cracks.
At the present European-quality repair it is necessary to replace radiators on more effective and aesthetic. Radiators happen aluminium, steel and bimetallic. Before radiator purchase take an interest in own DEZ — what working pressure is supported in your system. And also — what maximum pressure they use at «opressovke». Proceeding from the received data, choose heating radiators.
YOU ON CALLING THE ELECTRICIAN…
Even prior to the beginning of repair it is necessary to think over arrangement of furniture and to plan sockets, switches, additional illumination in those places of apartment where it is necessary.
We will be stipulated — to attend to installation electricians the expert should. But if you have undertaken — accept as the instruction to a survival…
If apartment repair is done in the house to which 20 years are more and posting in it is made by an aluminium wire it is better than it to make all anew as aluminium grows old in due course and loses the plasticity a little. For this reason old aluminium wires break after several bends. Sometimes, to reach a break, it is necessary to hollow a wall. Besides, at hit on an aluminium wire of a moisture being energised (at isolation damage) this metal starts to collapse fast. Therefore posting is better for doing a copper wire. For a lining of wires in walls are done shtrobyi, in them plastic tubes in which wires are passed are laid. In emergency it will be possible to pull out all wire and to replace new, not damaging apartment furnish.
Use for posting of illumination a wire section 1,5 of square millimetre, and for sockets — section in 2,5. For kitchen it is better to make separate posting (that is to introduce it to the separate automatic machine) a wire in 2,5 or even 4 square millimetres.
Sockets are better for choosing with "interiors" from ceramics, instead of from plastic.
The switch it is necessary to possess at an input in a room that he was easy for finding out in darkness, having entered in a room. It is possible to establish it near to a platband and at height of your lowered hand (about 80-90 centimetres from a floor), its this natural position. Furthermore, if you have children it also will be convenient for using the switch.
About desks it is convenient to possess sockets hardly above table level. On kitchen the group of sockets should be established under the future regiments. Do not forget to draw a conclusion for additional illumination and an air cleaner.
If at you a long corridor in its different ends it is possible to deliver ceiling light switches. In many apartments about a bathroom and a toilet, there where there were mezzanines earlier, is dark enough — conduct there illumination.
Recently very often put sockets directly in a bathroom (basically for washing machines). However in premises with the raised humidity to establish sockets and switches it is impossible. Do not think, that from defeat by an electric current you will be protected by""grounding", after all in our houses instead of grounding do«zanulenie», and it not same. The socket for a washing machine is better for delivering outside.
Switches and sockets should be established not simply in deepening in a wall, and in special plastic boxes.
Wires from boxes are conducted only vertically and horizontally, but not on a diagonal. It is done always to imagine those places where there passes a wire. Wires are stretched in shtrobah by depth of 2-3 millimetres. SHtrobyi should be immured. At a lining of wires in corners between a wall and a floor it is necessary to consider plinth height that then at its fastening to a wall or a floor nails or screws not to damage posting. Do not conduct a wire on corners of those walls, which leave on street not to damage an apartment thermal protection. Outside walls are hollowed rather easily so that shtroba let will pass above.
After closing-up do not forget to draw the scheme of posting with instructions of places of connection of new wires to old, and also zones where there pass wires.
About difficult for the nonspecialist — about «zanulenii». Do in its two methods.
To the plug in the case of the socket instead of "earth" connect a crosspiece from a "zero" wire. It is necessary to know, that this method has one serious danger. It is necessary to watch closely, that to you subsequently on a board any not too competent electrician has not mixed "zero" with "phase". It will result to that all electrodevices which you wished to secure will burn down. Besides, often this «the working zero» happens is polluted because of malfunction of any electrodevice or the posting. And still — in some houses protecting automatic machines break off not only a line of a phase wire, but also a line of a zero wire. It in general deprives of any sense similar «zanulenie».
It is possible to conduct one more wire from the socket to a distributive guard in a corridor and connect it on the guard case. Such wire name «a pure zero». However, there were cases, that the guard case has been polluted (a sampler showed availability of potential). In this case it is necessary to address in DEZ that they have eliminated malfunction.
Attention! The electroposting made incorrectly in your apartment represents danger not only to electrodevices, but also to a life and health you and your relatives. The competent master should execute all electrotechnical works.
WE START WALL PAINTING
As we save, it is possible to refuse wall-paper temporarily, and walls simply to "roll up" vodoemulsionnoy a paint. After all all core at you is already made and to paste wall-paper it is possible at any time. As colouring of walls as a variant of their furnish becomes recently more and more popular.
Paints available on sale now the great variety unlike recent Soviet times and to be guided in this sea of the goods difficultly enough. Therefore before purchase of materials including paints, talk to masters — to their recommendations it is necessary to listen.
For ceilings and walls the paint will approach matte lateksnaya. However, for walls the glossy paint is more practical, but luster is not fashionable today. On kitchen and walls it is better to paint a ceiling with washing paint as there a ceiling and walls become soiled most intensively.
At a choice of paints is better to be guided by manufacturers most firms of repute. The present firm paint never will deceive your expectations, of course, at observance of all recommendations about its application. The label together with the firm-manufacturer name, a date of issue and a retention period should be printed on bank together with the instruction in Russian it is necessary for them to adhere.
At purchase be guided not by quantity of a paint in bank, and on what quantity of square metres of a surface can be painted its contents. Having made simple actions by means of the calculator, you are convinced once again, that at recalculation on one square metre of a surface of a paint of one degree of quality even different manufacturers will cost approximately equally.
From necessity to run on shops and to choose the necessary shade you will relieve computer selection of colour («kolerovka» paints in any shade necessary to you). Such service grant today almost in each large shop.
AND NEVERTHELESS — WALL-PAPER
If on the family council the strategic decision was accepted — «to Wall-paper to be!», be ready to a hard problem of a choice. But it is possible to find rather inexpensive, but outwardly rich and pathos wall-paper simulating the most elite kinds stenovyih of covers.
There is a set of variants of wall-paper: from paper to vinyl, having a paper basis, steklooboi, liquid wall-paper. There is even such paper wall-paper (not to confuse with steklooboyami) with which it is possible to paint usual vodoemulsionnoy with a paint. The moisture resistant paper wall-paper impregnated with water-repellent structure (though their moisture resistant qualities are weak enough in comparison with vinyl and "silk-screen printing", — last maintain even damp cleaning) are manufactured. However, at a label on walls of the vinyl wall-paper which has been especially made foam, special glue (with an inscription "vinyl") because of the big weight of this wall-paper is required.
Thin wall-paper requires the careful processing of walls just already made shpaklevki. If you have passed this stage and walls have many roughnesses to hide them dense, "volume" wall-paper will help. However places where the cement mortal was used at plaster or at zadelke cracks, it is necessary to putty or paint over, that the dirt containing in a solution has not appeared in due course through wall-paper.
By the way, beautifully, up to euro-level, correctly picked up wall-paper and on a ceiling can be looked. Furthermore, now on sale there were special kinds of "ceiling" wall-paper.
Requests to «oboynomu» to European-quality repair:
- Wall-paper should be pasted end-to-end without cracks and nahlesta;
- Drawing should be picked up, that is wall-paper should be looked as a unit;
- If drawing of wall-paper contains vertical and horizontal elements they should be strict on level;
- Wall-paper should not depart from walls;
- There should not be tense corners, that is the corner should not «prohoditsya» a uniform piece of wall-paper;
- It is necessary to observe temperature range at the moment of drying of wall-paper. Do not suppose any draughts.
DOORS — RELIABLE AND BEAUTIFUL
What should be a source door in prestigious apartment? — It is final, — steel.
You will not produce it, but can establish. We will consider nuances of this action…
The source steel door is not always put in a concrete aperture. There are cases when the wall separating your apartment from the general corridor or a staircase, is combined from a brick or, than that is worse, from peno - or shlakoblokov, and the thickness it thus does not exceed 15-20 centimetres. From this follows, that the new source steel door will be on durability above, than walls surrounding it, that in many respects deprives of sense its installation. In this case it is possible to strengthen walls, having fixed on them steel sheets in the thickness not less than 2 millimetres. To do it it is possible both outside, and inside but so that it was not too appreciable for strangers. Besides, one of locks in a steel door should open a key not only outside, but also from within. Also should not be appreciable for strangers and those probes, which krepyat a box of a steel door to walls. It concerns "portable" doors, that is to what considerably support a wall plane.
At all dignities the source steel door has also serious defects: bad warmly - and sound-proof qualities. Cases of breakage of locks and jamming of doors are besides, frequent. Therefore — do not save, locks should be reliable enough and, hence, not cheap.
Backlashes between a steel door and a box should be not less than 4-5 millimetres in order to avoid jamming of a door in case of a fire (the sizes of a door increase at heating) or building deformation, for example, at a deposit (especially it concerns new buildings).
If the wall separating apartment from a staircase, thick enough (not less) for improvement zvuko - and thermal protections I recommend, except steel to deliver in the same aperture the second door, it is better than 15-20 centimetres same, as well as all other doors in your apartment.
And it is possible to place both doors in this aperture so that both of them did not act in inside, outside. For this purpose it is necessary to order and establish a steel door with allowance for that doors did not stir one another. It, first of all, concerns the sizes of handles and their site.
For example, locks or latches to interroom doors are put usually on distance of one metre from a floor and it is good, when all handles are in apartment at one level. Hence, handles of locks of a steel door are better for making above or more low.
Now it is time to pass to interroom doors which can be divided conditionally on two big groups. Ready interroom doors, and also interroom doors in which it is necessary to cut only loops, concern the first locks completely and to insert glasses. Domestic, Finnish, Polish, English and Spanish interroom doors enter into it. The second group of doors — some kind of a half-finished product. The interroom doors requiring concern it (except vrezki loops and locks) also in additional processing (painting or lakirovka) for giving of a definitive kind by it. This group includes the Canadian, Indonesian and some domestic doors.
Choosing doors, you should consider not only the basic criteria — appearance and cost, but also quality, features of installation, and also service properties.
As a rule, the interroom doors are more expensive, the they it is better. But appearance is subject to this law only to a certain limit. In our country it is door cost in 300 dollars. Doors in cost in 200-500 dollars outwardly differ very slightly, and the price increase concerns basically only "interiors" of the door block. For example, in expensive Spanish doors (more than 500 dollars) it can be the continuous pine file covered with a thick layer of an interline interval.
Import interroom doors are most qualitative. Marriage happens and in them (about 10 %), but it speaks an inaccurate handling and storage more often. Therefore at purchase of import doors stipulate possibility of an exchange of marriage. Right after deliveries unpack and attentively examine interroom doors. To transport them is better in a factory packing.
As to domestic doors it is necessary to be convinced that the method of manufacturing and a material exclude possibility of their deformation while in service.
At a choice of doors do not forget to consider accessories cost (locks, loops, latches for double doors, screws), glasses, and also, if a door not varnished, varnish cost, shpaklevki under a tree. For example, if to rather inexpensive domestic door to add accessories cost, and also work and the materials, necessary to finish it to decent level under the price it will be made even with import which can seem to you first the expensive.
Features of installation of doors: whether it is necessary to cut loops and locks, and also — whether there correspond the sizes of a doorway to parametres of a new interroom door. For example, the Finnish and Spanish interroom doors are wider than ours on 2,5 centimetres, and above accordingly on 4 and 3 centimetres. The Canadian interroom doors can be wider on 1,5 centimetres (depending on where they are made). Therefore before purchase of import doors define the sizes of doorways in your apartment. Consider, that all of them can differ considerably.
Service properties. At a choice of doors consider as well their firmness to different sorts to damages. If the risk of such damages is great enough (for example, because of small children or pets) is better to choose those interroom doors which simply enough to restore. These are the Canadian interroom doors, and also interroom doors from a file or veneered, with thickness of veneer not less than 1-2 millimetres. For restoration it is required to you only a few skin, a varnish or a paint of the same shade by which the door is covered. Therefore at installation of the unpainted or not varnished door necessarily save a quantity of a paint or a varnish, used for its painting.
Purchasing ready interroom doors, also acquire a small amount of a varnish or a paint of the same structure or a shade by which your interroom doors are covered. In that place where you purchase interroom doors, such varnish or a paint, as a rule, are. The firm will not send interroom doors back to the manufacturer because of the slightest scratch!
How to select doors for "European-quality repair"?
- The door surface should have a minimum of knots. Knots should not be big and through as after a while they will simply drop out.
- Preparations for a door should be collected from a bar in width no more than 50-60 mm. It is done that interroom doors were not jarred on and did not burst. And the direction of fibres at stuck together bruskov should alternate.
- The door surface should be smooth and not fleecy. Hairiness — use sign at manufacturing of a door of a raw material.
- The door cloth should be flat and not have curvatures. To define it it is simple enough. Apply on a cloth an equal bar or simply pull a thread. It is possible to put a door on an equal floor.
- The door box should be the door equal, veneered or qualitatively painted under colour, with good cleanliness of processing (instead of it is slightly spread hardly dissolved morilkoy as it happens at some domestic doors).
- Doors should not be too heavy, as the big weight — the certificate of badly dried tree. Then, in process of drying, such doors can warp and even to burst.
- The veneered surface should be without swellings, an interline interval about end faces of a door cloth and, especially, at end faces should not depart from a file.
- Door end faces if they are not covered by an interline interval, should be painted under its colour.
- «SHtapiki» round glasses — they should be oak or at least painted in the same colour, as a door.
Characteristics of "door European-quality repair»:
- Loops and locks should be vrezanyi so that a backlash between them and a box did not exceed 1 millimetre;
- The box fastens only on screws (diameter not less than 5 millimetres);
- Apertures under screws or are closed by special plugs, or closed up shpaklevkoy under colour of a box;
- The door should not open or be closed itself, and should be motionless in any position. It should not be closed with effort;
- The door box should be established strictly vertically with a deviation no more than 5-6 millimetres;
- Distance between a door and a floor about 1-1,5 centimetres. If about a door the carpet lays, consider its thickness that the door did not touch it;
- If two doors are nearby they should be at one level (is possible the difference to 5-8 millimetres, then this difference is levelled by platbands).
WHAT PRESTIGE WITHOUT THE TILE?!
By itself — you will spread a tile a floor and walls in a bathroom, in a bathroom. On kitchen, along working section — too a tile. But it is all — a standard variant. We do "euro". Then it is necessary to dream up and present a ceramic tile on a kitchen floor, and, can be — in a hall.
Choosing a tile, even from among import — be attentive. Especially with watchfulness it is necessary to concern the goods which seems very cheap. Usually it is the low-grade goods or acquired by our sellers under knock-down prices «nekonditsiya», having already transferred signs of deviations from a necessary degree of quality.
Tile stacking. A tile put on a solution for which preparation use a dry plaster mix, and add in it a small amount of glue PVA. Before stacking on a wall do notches, and a tile well moisten, that it did not extend a moisture from a solution and was more strong kept. This method of stacking allows to put qualitatively a tile even on not so equal walls. And as stacking is conducted on a continuous layer of a solution, under a tile there are no emptiness into which water can get or be formed a condensate promoting otslaivaniyu of a tile from a wall. Used for tile stacking the dry mix should not be limy (light).
For tile stacking it is possible to use also special mastics or glues, and also a mix of pure cement with PVA. These structures also well and strong keep a tile. However, their use on the walls having roughnesses or an inclination, is problematic enough. We will admit, you did not begin to level a wall. Then it is quite possible, that on any wall there will be a fair deviation, in 4-5 centimetres. Use at such deviations of special glues and mixes for tile stacking leads only to their unfairly high cost. And as there are they a minimum in 3 times more expensively a usual ready plaster mix, — and to excessive expenditure.
Tile stacking is started right after by postings of sanitary pipes, installations of a bath and doors. A bath obkladyivayut a brick with which then revet with a tile. Sometimes on this wall do a door for access to bath plum. But it is more preferable to make the demountable hatch, using as fastening magnetic latches (powerful enough and not less than 4 pieces, sold in the complete set together with the mortgage punched details). Or to keep in a brick wall a small window and to close it tightly a tile. Thus, in emergency you, having broken one or two tiles (it is necessary to have on this case spare), covering this window, get access necessary for you.
In a wall closing a bath, it is possible to make deepening for feet that it was convenient to stand about it, especially it is actual for those who should erase in a bath or, for example, to bathe the child. Deepening also is revetted with a tile.
«Otlivyi». That water did not proceed in joints between a bathroom and a wall, it is necessary to decide also, whether will be done "having cast" from a tile, or you will manage a special plastic border or bordyurnoy a tape. It is necessary to notice, that at stacking of a tile with "outflow" it is necessary to fix very well a bath, it is desirable to lay out from a rack brick against which its edges will lean. It is important that between a tile and the bathroom did not form a crack which at inevitable hit in it waters will increase.
«Otlivyi» it is better to do of the whole tile, instead of from small strips. In this case the seam between a plane of a wall and "outflow" will directly not be under a water stream that leads to its washing out and to that the tile can in due course is simple fall off.
Requests to tiled "European-quality repair":
- The tile keeps within strictly vertically and all tiles should be in one plane. It is inadmissible navisanie or sticking of edge of one tile concerning other;
- Under a tile there should not be emptiness (they can be defined prostukivaniem);
- Distances between tiles (seams) should be everywhere identical and equal (1-2 millimetres or more — on your taste);
- Seams between tiles should coincide and form a straight line;
- Seams should be executed strictly on level;
- Drawing of tiles should be picked strictly up;
- Seams are necessary for rubbing clean special zatirochnyim cement, it is better Finnish as in difference, for example, from Turkish, it does not turn yellow.
Certainly, in today’s issue we have indicated far not all kinds of repair work. Your apartment yet has no desirable kind — the prestige is not swept up yet. In following number we will continue finishing of your dwelling to level "euro".
At last, we will specify some aspects of independent repair of a class "prestige". Namely, — sequence of works.
For example, in a bathroom and in a toilet installation of doors after installation of sanitary pipes will protect door boxes from possible damage; stacking of a tile after installation of doors will allow to avoid the superfluous expenditure connected with possible expansion of a doorway, cutting of boxes, and also to exclude probability of damage of the walls revetted with a new tile.
Electrotechnical works (installation of sockets and switches) also are necessary for executing before tile stacking. Walls in the sanitary block, as a rule, thin and to make an aperture under boxes for switches and sockets, not having damaged thus svezhepolozhennuyu a tile, difficult enough.
Deviations are possible also. So, the small volume of plaster works is usually done together with painting if this volume is significant (usually in brick houses) its basic part is done before installation of doors. Besides, depending on a choice of floor covering type this stage is done by you during other time: a floor of a tile — if be going to do it in the apartment large part it is better to do before installation of doors (especially if a floor in apartment rough and you plan it to level). Alignment of a floor and tile stacking are connected with a great volume rastvornyih works, and thus it is possible to damage new doors. Zatirku seams in this case do after the termination of painting works. The laid tile should be protected well from possible damages and a dirt. Is better to cover such floor hardboard sheets.
If the tiled floor is on kitchen and in a hall to do it it is necessary after installation of doors. The border between a tile and cover in other part of apartment, for example, a parquet, should be under a door.
If floor covers are parquet (a parquet, the panel board parquet, the laminated parquet, a parquet board) the flooring is better for doing after installation of doors and the termination of painting works. As installation of doors and painting works are connected with plaster works, — water, a solution, drying oil or shpaklyovka can damage a parquet.
If you plan to lay kovrolin, — it is done in the last turn after a label of wall-paper, before platbands and plinths.
Have stayed on linoleum, — supply ideally equal basis (DSP, a hardboard, plywood). Therefore its stacking is better for doing after painting works, but before a label of wall-paper.
Under M.Verikina’s book (www.dveri-ust.ru) «How to make European-quality repair» (2000)
Source: «the Building season» #24 (2003)
It is introduced: on July, 14th, 2003 |
"European-quality repair" by the hands
So, at you holiday. The savings accumulated for labour year are divided into a trip of children to the sea (to the grandmother on a summer residence) and dwelling repair. And, you have planned repair most that is capital, with the claim for "euro". And, apparently, it will fly to you «in kopeechku». And after all so it would be desirable and is better and cheaper… But how? To undertake, let and not knowing, not being able much? Or to employ masters is cheaper?
Experts say, that "European-quality repir" is simply qualitative, professionally made repair. Let’s check up, whether you can achieve such quality if have decided to save on-maximum and to do all the hands…
RE-PLANNING
Apartment repair, especially European-quality repair, re-planning which allows to improve and update apartment for the account of insignificant rise in price of repair often anticipates. If you were decided on it to begin it is necessary from the dirtiest works: a pulling down of walls, cutting out or cutting out of apertures, air line reduction on kitchen, demolition of the mezzanines, unnecessary cases.
At first we will release space of partitions from plaster and from a brick — in a brick quarter (on an edge), and also from atseita or dry plaster. Any fears removal of such walls to cause should not. They do not bear any load, and their pulling down will not affect a building design.
You do not have not enough apertures and arches? The cheapest variant: to cut down an aperture the puncher. At this method it is a lot of noise, a dust and especially vibrations. At neighbours plaster below can fall off. Therefore especially it is not recommended to use this method if re-planning is done in for a long time populated rendered habitable house (especially panel). If you live in a new building or in the brick house it is possible to take advantage of this method.
Apertures can be done a method diamond are sharp shlitsfrezerom. Then noise will be less and vibrations from a diamond disk — any. Besides shlitsfrezer, unlike the Bulgarian, "sucks away" all dust. Even edges of apertures are received much more exactly.
That re-planning of your apartment has not led to sad consequences for all house, apertures in bearing walls (both in concrete, and in brick) should be necessarily strengthened corners or a channel.
Bathroom re-planning, as a rule, is done before re-planning of other part of apartment. For "European-quality repair" bathroom re-planning not for the purpose of combination with a bathroom, and for increase in its area is characteristic. Such re-planning usually gives an area increase in one square metre and more. Besides, there are two more positive moments.
First, again constructed walls will be strictly vertical and little bit more thickly that were before re-planning. Hence, doors also will be strictly vertical, and the thickness of a door box will be equal to a thickness of a wall.
Secondly, after removal of the bottom plate at a sanitary cabin in a bathroom and a toilet it will be possible to deliver standard two-metre doors, and they will be at the same level, as all the others.
Attention! If bathroom re-planning included removal of own bottom plate of a bathroom, the waterproofing of a floor and walls (from a floor on height of ~10 centimetres) in bathing and toilet rooms should be necessarily made. For the waterproofing system special mastic is used.
If in your apartment santehkabina it is made of plaster decide, re-planning santehkabinyi is necessary or not to you, namely, whether there is a re-planning of expenses for it. If santehkabina it is made from atseita (asbestotsementnaya a plate in the thickness in 1 centimetre, still it name flat slate; because of availability in its structure of asbestos it concerns far not most ecologically pure materials) re-planning is very desirable. Re-planning also is desirable because of following moments:
- Walls at atseitovoy santehkabinyi are even more thin, than at the plaster;
- Walls at such santehkabinyi have no sufficient rigidity;
- The tile on such walls is kept not so well, and because of probable fluctuations in a kind of their insufficient rigidity can fall off in general in due course.
Having taken into consideration all above stated, you should decide, re-planning of a bathroom is necessary to you or not. But consider, bathroom re-planning should mean a pulling down santehkabinyi entirely. It is not recommended to take down a part santehkabinyi, except for a wall dividing a bathroom and a toilet. All santehkabina is a unit. Re-planning at which the part santehkabinyi communicates, weakens the design rest that can lead to deformation of the remained elements santehkabinyi.
Any re-planning of apartment means erection of partitions. Partitions are the easy walls dividing internal space of apartment on separate premises. Partitions should be strong, have sufficient soundproofing properties and are reliably fixed between walls, a floor and a ceiling. Apartment re-planning also can be done with use of partitions of a brick, peno - and shlakoblokov, and also frame with a covering from DSP, plywood, a hardboard or dry plaster.
Brick partitions in apartment are usually done in a half-or a brick quarter. Brick partitions are irreplaceable in a bathroom (to put a tile on a frame partition it is undesirable). They are strong, rigid, well absorb a sound. Negative property is their weight. Similar partitions because of their weight require the reliable basis. If re-planning is conducted in the old house with wooden overlappings, it is better to refuse their use. Deviations from a vertical at a ready laying should not exceed 1 see, and at plastered — no more than 5 mm.
Erection of a decorative arch. The arch in apartment executes basically purely decorative functions. The arch visually divides internal space of a premise into various volumes. Sometimes the arch hides some not so aesthetic design features of a building (a beam, an air line and so forth).
Planning repair apartments (European-quality repair), you should know, that the arch considerably influences a premise interior. For example, the arch can visually increase ceiling height, expand an aperture.
What should be an arch at "European-quality repair":
- In the rounded off places of an arch there are no direct plots;
- Places of transition from direct plots of an arch to rounded off smooth also are at identical height;
- The corner between an internal surface of an arch and a wall plane should be to straight lines;
- The internal sheet of a hardboard or plywood not only is beaten by nails, but also glued PVA;
- Nails and screws do not act;
- The arch is looked as a unit with walls;
WE LEVEL THE FLOOR
If you have found out, that the floor in your apartment has roughnesses, and also a solid inclination it can be levelled, having made rastvornuyu a coupler. To do a coupler is better before installation of doors and painting works. To evaluate amount of works, it is necessary to measure previously, the deviation of a floor from a horizontal is how much great. Liquid level is for this purpose used.
Quite often inclination in apartments happens so big, that floor alignment on all apartment can lead to reduction of height of a ceiling, sometimes till 10-20 see At such significant differences some cubic metre keramzita (to data, the dump-body truck contains from 1,5 to 2 cubic metre) is required not less than ton of a dry mix, and also. Keramzit it is necessary as napolnitel for reduction of an expenditure of a solution. It is possible to mix it with a solution — it will be received «keramzitobeton», or to use keramzit as the basis, and from above to make rastvornuyu a coupler, and the thickness of a coupler should be not less than 3 Additional plus from these works — significant improvement of sound insulation see.
Check up in the above described method a floor in kitchen. If it has a significant inclination the kitchen furniture delivered in one line will have the same inclination, and it needs to be exhibited strictly on level that the top surfaces of tables were in one plane.
After the coupler will be made (it should dry about one month, and its residual humidity before floor stacking should not exceed 5 %), check up its horizontal position by means of the same level.
IF WALLS KRIVOVATYI
Quite often concrete plates and panels of walls have a wavy surface, and this sinuosity happens enough deep and consequently well appreciable. SHpaklevkoy it is possible to "introduce" only insignificant roughnesses (to 5 millimetres) if they exceed this limit, it is necessary to use a solution and to do small plaster works. Or, for example, if doors considerably support a plane of a wall because of its strong inclination, also it is necessary to "reduce" plaster similar ledges. For reduction of expenses (plaster works are expensive enough) unessentially to plaster all walls having roughnesses. It is possible to be limited to those walls, roughnesses on which are well appreciable, or their small pieces. Them concern:
- Walls on which the slanting light falls, possessed under a right angle to a window plane (if they are not forced by furniture they are better for levelling);
- Places where plinths will fasten, especially what should be in the public eye.
Apply on the bottom part of walls where plinths will fasten, equal brusok or level and if cracks between bruskom or level are great enough (more than 5 millimetres) them is better to level plaster, and to plaster solution is possible only a small strip in height of 10-15 sm, and subsequently it is enough to "reduce" other roughnesses shpaklevkoy on is not present. That this small layer of a solution was reliably kept and in the future at face lifting has not fallen off a wall, it is necessary to prepare well its surface, having cleared from layers old shpaklevki and progruntovav glue PVA dissolved with water.
Other not evident defects frequently happens to smooth down enough shpaklevkoy to make their imperceptible.
TO ITSELF THE SANITARY TECHNICIAN
What European-quality repair without complete replacement sanitary technicians: cranes, bowls, a bath, a toilet bowl, polotentsesushitelya? And for completeness of "europeanization" it would be necessary to establish «a warm floor» (heated floor). Therefore you should make new distributing water, and sometimes and sewer, pipes. Furthermore, not simple, but the latent distributing is when pipes stack in specially made deepenings in walls (shtrobyi) which are then immured by a solution. Therefore requests to quality of works should be very strict as after zamurovki and facing by a tile to correct marriage, not having spoilt thus a significant part of a bathroom, it is practically impossible.
Pipes for a waterpipe are used the different: steel zinced, copper and metalloplastikovyie.
The steel zinced pipes — the most inexpensive, but also the most short-lived, term of their service is limited by 15-20 years. The enemy of the steel zinced pipes — corrosion. If you have chosen the steel zinced pipes consider the following:
- Connections from these pipes are better for executing on a carving, instead of on welding;
- Pay attention to, that the connecting armature (corners, mufta and so forth) also was zinced;
- After installation and to zamurovki joints necessarily check up on tightness.
Copper pipes are subject to corrosion much less the steel zinced. They have high plasticity that allows to do without numerous connections. A warm floor do a copper tube.
Metalloplastikovyie pipes are produced two-and three-layer. An inside layer at these pipes from a thin aluminium tape, and outside layers (one or two) — from plastic (molekulyarno the sewed polyethylene). They have, as well as copper, high plasticity that allows to do without numerous connections. They are not subject absolutely not to corrosion.
After installation of pipes, before zamurovkoy, take an interest at the neighbours, whether the pressure of water was changed at them and whether it depends on that, include or you switch off water in the apartment. If such dependence exists, works at you are made incorrectly, and it is better to eliminate marriage in time.
Simultaneously with a lining of pipes we establish a bath. The bath is established on level as the bath form already provides a necessary bias aside plum. At bath installation it is necessary to consider floor level. It is better to exclude at once possibility to use a bathroom before the repair termination, as, if over it to establish the crane to use it and consequently, and a bathroom will very actively, and bath damages are rather probable. At purchase the bath should be checked up. Bath edges should be in one plane. (It is desirable to turn a bath and to put it on a plane).
At a bowl choice it is necessary to check up its geometrical form. Special attention pay on the party of a bowl paid to a wall, — it should be absolutely flat. Then between a bowl and a wall there will be no cracks.
At the present European-quality repair it is necessary to replace radiators on more effective and aesthetic. Radiators happen aluminium, steel and bimetallic. Before radiator purchase take an interest in own DEZ — what working pressure is supported in your system. And also — what maximum pressure they use at «opressovke». Proceeding from the received data, choose heating radiators.